Climbing nuts, also known as wires or stoppers, are passive protection devices used in trad climbing. They are wedged into cracks and constrictions in the rock to create secure anchor points. Nuts are lightweight, durable, and ideal for tapered cracks where cams may not fit.
Choose nuts based on crack sizes. A basic rack typically includes sizes 1–10, covering small to medium cracks. For larger cracks or flared placements, consider adding offset or hex nuts. Micronuts are useful for very thin cracks but require careful placement.
Offset nuts have asymmetrical shapes designed for irregular or flared cracks, offering secure placements where regular nuts may not fit well. Regular nuts have symmetrical or slightly curved designs that work best in parallel-sided or tapered cracks.
Place nuts in tapered constrictions where the crack narrows deeper inside. Ensure maximum surface contact with the rock and orient the nut to fit securely. Tug gently to seat it and extend it with a quickdraw to prevent rope movement from dislodging it.
Yes, climbing nuts are an essential part of a beginner’s trad rack. Learning to place and remove them teaches fundamental skills in gear placement and route protection. Brands like DMM Wallnuts or Wild Country Rocks are great starting options.
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